06 November 2011

A day in the Mongolian countryside

This past week has been pretty busy but very productive. I’ve settled in to my new apartment, shopped for groceries and household goods at several markets and supermarkets spread around UB (it’s impossible to get all your shopping at one place here), and began language classes for three hours a day. It was also filled with lots of social events - on Tuesday we went to another group of AYADs apartment to watch the Melbourne Cup and on Thursday night a big group of us went out for dinner and to see a Mongolian band called Altan Urag. I really loved this. The band consists of six members, playing mostly traditional Mongolian instruments (including the horse-headed fiddle) but play a cross between of punk/rock/folk. They’re also pretty famous and have played at the Fuji Rock Festival in Japan. Unfortunately though sets in Mongolia last for just 15-20 minutes so after just four songs the band was packing up to go home…

After such a busy week, I couldn’t think of a better way to spend yesterday (Saturday) than to go out in to the countryside of Mongolia for some fresh air, beautiful views and lovely company. Our in-country management team organised for a group of us AYADs to visit a traditional nomadic Mongolian three-generation family.

On the drive there we stopped by the roadside where a Mongolian man had a couple of eagles. In western Mongolia, eagles are trained since birth as hunters to catch marmots, rabbits and small foxes. This has been a Mongolian Kazakh tradition for centuries. These particular eagles that we saw had had their wings clipped however, so it was possible for any person to have the eagle sit on their forearm and upon which the bird would balance while the person lifted their arm up and down. A few of the AYADs did just that (I couldn’t bring myself to go near those claws after a few too many bird swoops at home).

The drive to and from the family’s ger (literally meaning ‘home’, the ger is the traditional Mongolian tent, called a yurt in English) was absolutely stunning. We even got to see a group of camels with two humps, along with many goats, sheep, cows and of course, Mongolian horses.




Upon arrival at the family’s ger we were greeted by the elders through hugs and instead of kisses, sniffs on both cheek. We then went into the mother and father’s ger, entering in to the left hand side of the door. We were given a cup of white tea that instead of sugar, is flavoured by a few pinches of salt. I thought it actually tasted quite nice.

There were also some snacks for us to try that were kind of like bits of hard donuts.

We had brought along food to made a hor hog, the real traditional Mongolian barbeque. The father of the family was responsible for cooking this (not that different to an Australian BBQ) so while it was being prepared we were told to take a walk and a look around their beautiful property. During this time we also visited the elders ger, which was actually a traditional Kazakh ger. They were really lovely and even let us try on a traditional Kazakh outfit. The hat I’m wearing is actually made out of fox feet!


A few hours later we all sat down in the ger (around 25 o f us) to enjoy the meal. The meat of the hor hog was mutton, and we had cooked some vegetables and made salads to go with it. It was delicious. By the time we had all finished our meals it was getting late so we had to say our goodbyes.

On our way ho
me back to UB we stopped at the big Chinggis (Genghis) Khan statue, which shows Chinggis riding a horse. According to legend, this is where Chinggis had found a golden whip. The statue is 40 metres high and apparently you can climb up to the head of the horse. Unfortunately it was getting quite dark (not to mention FREEZING cold!) so we’re hoping to go back again in the daytime.


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